16. aug. 2013

The Incredible TOKYO

[ by Stian ]

Tokyo is the capital of Japan, and the largest metropolitan area in the world. Tokyo translates «as eastern capital» as it's combined by the two words 'to' (=eastern) and 'kyo' (=capital). The original name of the city was Edo, but as Tokyo became the capital in 1868 the name was changed as to include the word 'capital' (=kyo). Tokyo is actually a metropolitan prefecture, as the Tokyo metropolitan government administrates 23 special wards of Tokyo, each governed as an individual city. The metropolitan government also administrates 39 other municipalities west of the prefectures and also two outlying island chains. So in other words – Tokyo is a huuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuge area, consisting of many individual cities. 

Though as a tourist in Tokyo, you rarely go outside the special wards area, which is referred to as the proper city of Tokyo. The population of the special wards is over 9 million people, with the total population of the prefecture exceeding 13 million people. According to Wikipedia Tokyo is only the 15th most populated city in the world, beaten by among others Beijing, Jakarta and São Paulo (other cities I have dropped by this year). Though the total population of the whole metropolitan area of Tokyo, including the immediate suburbs, exceeds more than 37 million people, and suddenly Tokyo is the largest city in the world coming to population. UN defines though the population of a city proper as «the population living within the administrative boundaries of a city», so in Tokyo's case – the 23 special wards.


The parts of Tokyo we got to see

So as a tourist I thought I was just visiting one city, but it turns out that I was at least dropping by 7 different individual «cities» (special wards) within Tokyo. The special wards all have their own city center: area Asakusa + Ueno (belonging to special ward Taito), area Shinjuku (special ward: Shinjuku), area Shibuya + Harajuku + Yoyogi (special ward: Shibuya), area Odaiba + Roppongi + Shinbashi (special ward: Minato), area Ginza + Tsukiji + Tsukishima (special ward: Chuo), area Ryogoku (special ward: Sumida) and the area Akhiabara (belonging to special ward: Chiyoda). In other words, if you go to Tokyo and tell someone you are going downtown, to the city center – they will probably ask: «Which one?». Though all IS Tokyo, but it was interesting to realize how they actually define the governing of the huge area. I probably forgot some of the areas I visited, but the areas I (we) did visit are considered the MAIN areas/districts for tourists to explore and they are all next to each other, but NOT in walking distance. It took us about one hour at least to travel from where we stayed, to the one which was furthest away, even with taxi – at night.


Arriving Tokyo

Company Trondheim arrived a day earlier than me, but as I am dealing with a strict budget I had to find the cheapest way to get to Tokyo, and I was VERY lucky. I had a chat with the staff at the hostel in Kyoto and they made a couple of phone calls and they actually found me a bus ticket for the 4th of the price of a regular bus ticket, which really should not be possible. They did warn me though that this bus was probably not so comfortable, but who really cares when you get such a «cheap» ride to one of the coolest cities in the world? I was very very very happy that I actually was able to find a really cheap ride all the way to Tokyo – HOORAY!!!! It was the night-bus, and it was not very comfortable, mostly as I had the aile-seat, but I have to admit that it was not more uncomfortable than buses back home in Norway – it was pretty much the same standard.


Accommodation in Tokyo + Yuki

I had originally planned to do couchsurfing while in Tokyo (as it's an expensive city), though I had not gotten any response to my open request on my travel itinerary on the couchsurfing-webpage, so I had to check in to a hostel instead. I had found myself a hostel located in the Asakusa – area. The hostel called Khaosan Tokyo Original Guesthouse was OK – and had a very homey-feeling to it – not like regular hostels or similar. It probably used to be a regular house and someone's during one point. So I found my way there, but almost immediately after check-in I left to meet my friends who where staying at a very nice hotel in Ueno-area (so at least we were all in the same special ward of Tokyo, haha). Asakusa turned out to be a very very nice area indeed, and actually a place with many traditional and historical sites, which I was not aware of before arrival. So I was very pleased with this coincidence:) As there was a huge traditional festival going on in Asakusa this weekend, the hostel was fully booked for the weekend, so I had to change accommodation for a few days.  

My next hostel was the Tokyo Hostel, located in the Minowa -area. This hostel was by far not as nice. I had to share a 6 bed dorm, which had 2 triple bunker beds, which was impossible to sit upright in as there were no space. There was a nice common area though, and I did get to chat with some of the other guests, but as I hang out with my friends most of the time in Tokyo, I did not get to connect with many of them. Even though it was not the worst place to stay, it was a bit difficult to find, and nothing to see nearby, so I would not recommend this hostel – unless it's an emergency, cause it was cheap and seemed to always have some rooms available.

The final 2 nights of my stay in Tokyo I had planned to stay at a very nice hostel, but as I had gotten to know this local guy, Yuki, whom Håvard originally had connected with while in Tokyo, I ended up staying at his place as he offered me to «couchsurf» at his'. Meaning, he was not a part of the couchsurfing community, but I had told him about it, and he found it interesting so therefore he made me the offer of staying at his house. I accepted as I prefer to stay with local people, especially the ones I already know I will get along well with. Yuki did though not even really live in Tokyo, as he was living in the suburb Hiyoshi, which actually is a part of the neighboring city of Yokohama, but it is easy to get back and forth to the city center of Tokyo, so I did not mind. When I first met Yuki, which is gay, I was very surprised cause I did not get any gay vibe from him at all, as he is masculine, and very manly in every way. I did make a comment about this to him, but he told me that in Japan, everyone would know that he is gay – as the typical Japanese straight man is very feminine, and skinny. In other words: The way some things are perceived in Japan is completely opposite compared to the rest of the world – the more muscles you have and masculine you are the greater chance it is for you to be perceived as gay. Interesting indeed, but I do feel sorry for the Japanese girls who might like men for being MEN;)


Food, Drinks and Party In Tokyo

Ok, I was spending 9 days in Tokyo and the surrounding areas – so I got many a opportunity to try out local food. Though sometimes it was just as good to have something very similar and familiar as well. So we did have breakfast at Starbucks a couple of times, and dined at TGI Fridays and McDonald's and drank at local British pub the HubPub and Hard Rock Café. Though I of course prefer the local places that served local food! This «familiar» places were all mostly located in the Ueno area, so it made it very simple for us to go out. Btw...Tokyo's red light district is ALSO located in the Ueno area obviously...not that we cared much about this are, haha.

Coming to food most people think of Sushi to be THE typical Japanese cuisine, though sushi is only a very small part of the Japanese cuisine as there is sooooo much more. Unfortunately, we never get to see the majority of the fantastic Japanese cuisine back home in Europe, as people are mostly obsessed with sushi now days. Ah well. I will mention just a few places that we/I went to which was GREAT and is recommended for everyone who goes to Tokyo to drop by, both with traditional food and non-traditional food:

Cold Stone Creamery – was one of the first places we got to experience in Tokyo, as it was located at the base of the Tokyo Skytree. It is to be honest just an ice-cream shop, but we were totally blown away by the amazing and cheerful staff that while mixing the ice-cream for us was communicating really well with us, and then started to sing loudly and throwing the ice-cream in the air like if they were professional bartenders working at a high-class bar. It really was funny, and the ice-cream was amazing, haha.

Fuglen Café: Oh what an amazing place. Fuglen is a NORWEGIAN bar/café located close to the Yoyogi Park in Shibuya. The interior of this place is all Norwegian design imported from Norway, the menu is completely Norwegian as well, with real bread and brown cheese, and also Norwegian beer as well. The staff had all lived in Norway during one point so they knew well of the Norwegian culture as well, though they were not aware that the Norwegian music they were playing in the background was alternative Norwegian religious songs from the 70s. I have to say I was surprised as I really liked the music and I found the concept of the place to be amazing. It really really is a must-visit when in Tokyo. Of course I had to order myself two slices of nice bread with brown cheese. Of course this made me homesick as well. Haha. Brown Cheese RULES THE WORLD;)

The Lock Up – was an amazing and funny horror-themed bar/restaurant, located in Ueno, where the customers were locked up in prison cells. As we had already eaten, we only ordered ourselves drinks, which were served in chemistry-containers/mixers as a glass, added nitrogen to make a very smoky effect. It was really cool and really worth the experience, but a bit pricey of course. The menu looked nice as well so it is definitely an option to go eat here as well.

Universal City – is a restaurant in Shinjuku with many options where there sometimes are entertainment put on, as there was a stage there. The food they serve here is pretty much western style of food. I don't know if I were to ever go here again, but the place brings good memories back as it was here most of us met Yuki for the first time, as well as we got to meet another «friend» of Håvard as well, Masa, who also seemed like a very nice guy.

On Yasai Restaurant – located in Roppongi, was really really an amazing experience. Yuki brought me to this place and we shared a Nabe/Shabu Shabu, which turned out to be an amazing Japanese Hot Pot meal, where we got two different types of broth and many different kinds of meat and vegetables served, and we cook it all by ourself in the pot. It tasted really really nice. This is definitely one of the more genuine and exciting places I had dinner at while in Tokyo.

Monkichi Restaurant – located in Tsukishima area, was another place Yuki brought me to. This was really local and it would have been impossible for me to communicate here as no one seemed to speak English at all. Here I got to try a Tokyo specialty called Monjyayaki, and also again okonomiyaki, though this time Osaka Style.  

Gay Party: The gay district is located in Shinjuku. Most bars and clubs are therefore to be found here. We had some beers at the Dragon Man Bar, before we moved on to the Arty Farty Bar for some more beers + dancing, before ending up at the Arty Farty: The Annex Club, where at least I enjoyed myself a lot. Poor Håvard became totally wasted and fell asleep. The rest went home earlier than the two of us – so I had to take care of Håvard and get him into a taxi. When we got back to the hotel, after an hour, Håvard realized that he had forgotten his brand new Iphone5 at the club. He was very upset of course, but he got the receptionist to call the club to ask if they had found his phone, which they HAD! So Håvard only had to go back and get it (very long ride, very expensive for him). Tokyo impressed me a lot there – as we left a full club, leaving a brand new Iphone, and no one bothered to steal it. It seems like the Japanese have great respect for others property, which is a really really nice thing. Wish the whole world could have been like the Japanese in this matter.


SIGHTSEEING IN TOKYO

Tokyo is a MASSIVE city, it really is huge, and there is so much to see and explore here. There is something for everyone: Several Zoos, aquariums, parks, museums, individual city centers, temples, historical sites, shopping streets, fantastic gastronomic experiences and events/cultural happenings and so on and so on and so on.... So we had to choose what we wanted to see and to do. As we had different preferences we did not stay together all the time and some of the days we split up and did sightseeing on our own as well, which is ok as well.


Tokyo Skytree

Tokyo Skytree is the tallest freestanding tower in the world, and is a broadcasting, restaurant and observation tower. It is the second tallest construction overall in the world, 643 meters high, only beaten by Burj Khalifa in Dubai. The tower is located in the special ward of Sumida, which was located just across the river from my hostel in Asakusa. The construction of the tower was completed in 2012. The height of 634 m was selected to be easily remembered. The figures 6 (mu), 3 (sa), 4 (shi) stand for "Musashi", an old name of the region where the Tokyo Skytree stands. In the evenings the tower is illuminated in different colors (which seems to be a typical thing for Asia).

As this «IS», or thats what we thought at least, the place to get the perfect view of Tokyo, we decided to visit the tower already on the first day. It was as well a very beautiful day, with clear sky, so it was set for a perfect opportunity to get a really nice view of Tokyo. As it was not so far from my hostel we chose to walk the distance, which was a nice walk indeed. When we finally did reach the tower we ended up standing an hour and a half in line to get tickets, and then another 30 minutes or something in line for the elevator to the top. The first tickets only got us to the first level of the tower, so if we wanted to go all the way to the highest level, we had to purchase another ticket when we got to the «lower» level. So we did, or actually the lovely Frode and Morten treated me with the tickets, as they both were pretty expensive. When we finally got to the top and got to see the view we realized, or at least I did, that the view was just plain, nothing really spectacular, but I got my photos, and then we had to stand in line once more for getting the elevator back down... I personally felt it was both a waste of time and money to go there, but at least I can say that I have BEEN there now:) If you have short of time in Tokyo, don't waste time going here.. there are other places where you can have a nicer view, for FREE in Tokyo.


Akihabara Electric Town: Manga-Heaven

Akhiabara funnily enough translates as «field of autumn leaves», but there is neither a field here or any leaves to see at all, as it is today known as Electric Town. Akihabara is a major shopping area for electronic, computer, anime, games and otaku goods, including new and used items. Akihabara also gained some fame through being home to one of the first stores devoted to personal robots and robotics.  

The atmosphere in this area is very hectic. The buildings are tall and there are massively large posters of animé in the whole main street. We went here as the «boys» wanted to check out the offers on electronic products in this area, but I don't remember anyone doing a lot of shopping. I was mostly fascinated by the amount of animé/manga bookstores, which also sold manga-toys and dolls, and there was also a whole bunch of girls dressed up in manga-style in the streets as well, obviously trying to convince people to drop by the «manga»-bars in the area (which I think is not too family friendly). One thing is for sure: When you picture Tokyo in your head: THIS is the area you see. So it is definitely worth a visit for sure.


Sensō-ji, the beauty of Asakusa

Sensō-ji is an ancient Buddhist temple located in Asakusa, almost right next to where my hostel was located. It is Tokyo's oldest temple, founded in year 628, and one of its most significant. Adjacent to the temple is a Shinto shrine, the Asakusa Shrine. The temple is dedicated to the bodhisattva Kannon (Avalokitesvara). According to legend, a statue of the Kannon was found in the Sumida River in 628 by two fishermen. The chief of their village, recognized the sanctity of the statue and enshrined it by remodeling his own house into a small temple in Asakusa, so that the villagers could worship the Kannon. The first real temple was built on the site in 645, which makes it the oldest temple in Tokyo.

Håvard had a date in one of the first evenings and explored the area and told me about it the next day, so I went by myself in the evening the very next day, and WOW what a beautiful, relaxing and peaceful area it is. Dominating the entrance to the temple is the Kaminarimon or "Thunder Gate". This imposing Buddhist structure features a massive paper lantern dramatically painted in vivid red-and-black tones to suggest thunderclouds and lightning. Beyond the Kaminarimon is Nakamise-dori with its shops, followed by the Hōzōmon or "Treasure House Gate" which provides the entrance to the inner complex. Within the precincts stand a stately five-story pagoda and the main hall, devoted to Kannon Bosatsu. In the very late evening there were only a few tourists there, and even some couples in love. All of the constructions are nicely lit up and especially the five-storey pagoda is an impressive sight in the evening. I did return two days later to explore the area during daytime as well, but WOW it was very very very very crowded, and impossible to actually get by anywhere. I am very happy that I chose to explore the area at night first, so that I was able to experience the tranquility and the spiritual feeling of the complex (without the hordes of tourists).  

Sensō-ji is as well the focus of Tokyo's largest and most popular matsuri, the Sanja Matsuri, which is a Shinto festival. This festival happen to take place just when we were there. The festival always last for 3-4 days in the late spring, and sees the surrounding streets closed to traffic from dawn until late evening. It was because of this festival that it was almost impossible for me to find accommodation for the weekend (and that I had to change hostel). I did not end up going as I knew it would be extremely crowded, and I don't like massive crowds. I did get to see some of the preparations for the festival when I explored the area in the daytime just before the weekend though. I was told later though that it was a really nice experience by people who did go there...ah well, next time then;)


Sumo Wrestling

One of the things I was hoping to be able to experience, or at least learn more about, is the Japanese phenomena of Sumo wrestling. Sumo is some of the most Japanese you can get, so I was superhappy when I realized that there was a sumo-tournament going on in Tokyo during the week of my stay here, and there was this very lovely girl at my hostel, Chiara from Italy, who had asked me in the evening before if I wanted to join her and some others to attend the tournament. So of course I said yes. Now I got to both experience sumo-wrestling, and I even had people to go with (as I guess my friends would not have found this very interesting). So I and Chiara then headed for another hostel where we met up with, Christian and Andreas (Germans), Lai (Taiwanese), Karen (US), Mika (Taiwanese) and Ayumi (Japanese). We then headed for the Ryōgoku Kokugikan, which is the arena used for sumo tournaments in Tokyo.

The Ryōgoku Kokugikan building was opened in 1985 and has a capacity of 13,000 people. It is mainly used for sumo wrestling tournaments (honbasho) and hosts the hatsu (new year) basho in January, the natsu (summer) basho in May, and the aki (autumn) basho in September. It also houses a museum about sumo as well as the venue used for other indoor events, such as boxing, pro wrestling, and music concerts. WE were here for SUMO though:-)

So, sumo is basicly a competitive full-contact wrestling sport where a rikishi (wrestler) attempts to force another wrestler out of a circular ring or to touch the ground with anything other than the soles of the feet. The sport originated in Japan and is the only country where it is practiced professionally. A tournament last for several days, and the whole day as well, as there are many wrestlers taking part. So we got to the stadium early in the day as we had planned to stay for the whole day to attend all parts of the tournament, which started off with the «fights» between the lower ranked wrestlers. Throughout the day the higher ranked wrestlers found their way to the ring, while the day ends with the «fights» between the highest ranked of course, the yokozunas (grand champions). We also got to observe the ring-entering ceremony as well as the, which is only done by the yokozunas, and the so-called bow twirling ceremonies.

Sumo wrestling is, beside watching extremely and fat half-naked guys «play around», interesting. I have to admit that I preferred to observe the lower ranked wrestlers fight as they were more uneven when it came to techniques and even in weight, as in sumo there is no weight class so a wrestler can risk facing an opponent twice his own weight. This of course leads to more interesting battles. Also, the rule is that the lower ranked wrestlers have to start the fight right away, while the champions can use as much as up to 4 minutes to try to psych each other out before having to fight. As every match only last for a couple of seconds, these 4 minutes were pretty everlasting indeed and made it all boring. Sumo is by the way also probably the gayest sport I have ever observed, as many fighters use the flat of their hand to fight with their opponents – and the silly diaper-panties they are wearing says it all as well really. In the museum the yokozuas are portrayed in an extremely feminine way as well – dressed in the traditional kimoni of some kind, carrying teddy bears and so on.... ah well.

We even got to eat a traditional sumo-meal for lunch, the chankonabe, which is a Japanese stew commonly eaten in vast quantity by sumo wrestlers as part of a weight-gain diet. It contains a dashi or chicken broth soup base with sake or mirin to add flavor. The bulk of chankonabe is made up of large quantities of protein sources (usually chicken (quartered, skin left on), fish (fried and made into balls), tofu (or sometimes beef)) and vegetables (daikon, bok choy, etc.). Though, the chankonabe serwed during sumo tournaments is made exclusively with chicken, the idea being that a rikishi should always be on two legs like a chicken, not all fours. To be honest the chankonobe reminded me A LOT about a traditional Norwegian vegetable soup. At least it tasted really well:)


Ghibli Museum

During our stay in Tokyo, Jarle made me aware of that there is a Ghibli Museum, devoted to the animé movies from Studio Ghibli! I was totally excited about this revelation as I LOVE the Studio Ghibli productions:) To me this museum would be like a second Disneyland, only in a museum version – so we decided to go of course, though only me, Jarle and Håvard. The museum, which features Japanese anime work art of Studio Ghibli, and which is designed by Hayao Miyazaki himself, is not even located in proper Tokyo City, but is located in Inokashira Park in Mitaka, a western suburb of Tokyo. In other words. It is NOT easy to get there, but we eventually DID get there... only to realize that tickets had to be purchased in advance (on-line), and then many days in advance...so there was no way for us to get inside the museum:( I was really really sad and upset as I had really looked forward to this for the couple of days since I got to know about the museum. I could only admire the really cute exterior of the museum, which looked like it was taken right out from a scene in a Studio Ghibli production. At least I got to take a photo right next to my neighbor Totoro, which was displayed and visible from the outside...  


The GIGA intersection of Shibuya

Håvard insisted that he wanted to experience one of the largest intersections in the world, which was located in the Shibuya ward. Well, I and Jarle then reluctantly agreed to come along. Really, who goes to Tokyo to see an intersection? Well, Håvard obviously. As there was a Starbucks right next to it we got ourselves a coffee and then found a seat from where we could see the intersection. It is indeed large... and populated. Though it was not very interesting really. By the way, Shibuya is supposed to be a very nice shopping area as well for the ones who might be interested in knowing that...


Harajuku - district

The term Harajuku became internationally famous along with the famous song «Harajuku Girls» by Gwen Stefanie a few years back. Harajuku is actually a district in the Shibuya ward in Tokyo, with a well know shopping street called Takeshita street. Especially in the weekends there's is a lot of young people dressing up in what well might be called Japanese EMO-clothing and lots of make up, even boys do it. These young people is referred to as Harajuku girls and boys. So we decided to drop by in the weekend (on a Saturday) to get a glimpse of this very typical phenomena of Japanese popular culture. We were though let down, as there were not so many who had dressed up at all. There were a few, but not many. Especially this one crazy and extremely out of tune singer on the bridge towards the Yoyogi park got our attention. It was so bad it became interesting to be honest, haha. There are as well lots of stores here were one can buy this typical kind of harajuku-outfits and make up. We had lunch here, and then just moved on to the Yoyogi park, which is located close by.

Later in the evening I, Håvard and Yuki (which we had met up with) ended up attending a Jamaica Festival close to the Yoyogi Park for a short while and was very nice. We then headed for Omotesando Street, which is a very nice and popular shopping street in the Harajuku district, and houses the Tokyu Plaza shopping center, which has one of the coolest entrances EVER! So if anyone is going to Tokyo with the means of shopping: Omotesando Street IS the place. We could find pretty much everything here – and then I mean stuff that actually carry quality, not just simple souvenirs. So I definitely recommend this area, instead of Ginza, which is the most famous area for shopping.


Meiji Jingu (in Yoyogi Park)

Meiji Jinngu is a shrine located in the Yoyogi Park in the Shibuya ward. It is a shinto shrine that is dedicated to the deified spirits of Emperor Meiji and his wife. «Shinto» is the indigenous spirituality of Japan and the people of Japan. It is a set of practices, to be carried out diligently, to establish a connection between present day Japan and its ancient past, but refers today mostly to the type of public shrines like this one, where public events often take place. The original Meiji Shrine was completed in 1921, and back then it was the first in line shrine to get governmental support. The current buildings were constructed in 1958 as the original ones were destroyed during the bombing of Tokyo, during the second world war.


Mori Tower + Tokyo Tower

The day after Company Trondheim had returned back to Norway I met up with Yuki again, who took me to the Roppingi Hills area, which is located in the Minato ward. Yuki took me to the Roppongi Hills Mori Tower, which is the fifth tallest building in Tokyo, primarily used for offices, but as well retail stores, restaurants and other tourist attractions. On the 52nd and 54th floor there are observations deck where tourist catch a pretty nice view. As we got here pretty late, it was already dark – but the view was indeed really nice. From this particular tower we also got a very nice view of the famous Tokyo Tower, which is Tokyo's «Eiffel Tower», though only painted in white and orange. The Tokyo Tower was completed in 1958 and is the second tallest artificial structure in Japan with its 333 meters. Unfortunately it was a shitty rainy day, so the photos did not turn out very well, and the reflection of the light in the window did not help either... ah well. It was still a very nice evening with Yuki (as we had dinner together later).


Tsukiji Market (Fish market)

It was another rainy day, and it turned out that all the museums are closed on Mondays (except for Ghibli Museum which was sold out). So I decided to first explore the Ginza-area, which is a major shopping area – but it was pretty boring really (and expensive). So I chose to go to the Tsukiji Market instead. The Tokyo Metropolitan Central Wholesale Market, commonly known as the Tsukiji Market, is the biggest wholesale fish and seafood market in the world and also one of the largest wholesale food markets of any kind. The market is located in Tsukiji in the Chuo ward, central Tokyo, and is a major attraction for foreign visitors. It turned out though that the most of the activity at this market happen in the early early mornings, and by 11 am a lot of the shops start to close up and the fishermen go home for the day... so when I arrived it was pretty much empty, and it really did not look like a market at all. There were a few stands still open so I got to take some photos... but it was pretty much waste of time. Note to myself: If I ever return: Be there at 5 am (AS THAT's EVER going to happen)...


Imperial Palace Gardens

It was the very last day of my stay in actual Tokyo, and as it was a very nice day again I chose to go to the Imperial Palace Gardens, which is located in the Chiyoda ward. On the way I had to pass by the Tokyo Station building, which is a very nice building from 1914, and which is the busiest station in Japan in terms of number of trains (over 3000 trains a day). The Imperial Palace Gardens is located just a short walk from the Tokyo Station though. Within the Imperial Palace Gardens, which holds a large area open for the public, we can find the Tokyo Imperial Palace which is the main residence of the Emperor of Japan. The whole park is more than 3 square kilometers large and contains several buildings including the main palace, the private residences of the imperial family, an archive, museum and administrative offices. It is built on the site of the old Edo castle. Unfortunately the area containing the Imperial Palace itself is NOT open for the public. So I only got to explore the Kokyogaien and the East Gardens, which was nice enough – but not that exciting really. One of the most famous photos from this area is of the Nijūbashi Bridge which leads to one of the gates crossing the moat, surrounding the Imperial Palace area.


Ueno Onshi Park

Before catching up with Yuki again on this last day of sightseeing while in Tokyo I dropped by the Ueno Park, as this park contains a lot of nice sites, including a Zoo (I did not go there) and a 5 storey tall pagoda. I really wanted to see and get a photo of the pagoda... but it was very well hidden and closed for the public when I got there (what happen to my luck on this trip?). At least I got to take photos of the lovely Shinobazu pond, the Bentendo temple, the remains of the Ueno Daibutsu, Gojōten Jinja (row of shrines), the Kiyomizu Kannondō (very nice building) and the surrounding areas:)


Odaiba – district

In the evening of my very last day in Tokyo, Yuki took me to the Odaiba district. This area is the home of the Rainbow bridge, the Fuji TV Headquarters, the «Statue of Liberty», The Gundam-statue, a pretty large Ferris wheel and the really nice shopping center of Palette Town, which all interior is made to look like you are walking in a street in France/Italy-somewhere... it was a really nice evening, and the Palette Town is really beautiful, but too expensive for me, so we mostly did sightseeing there rather than shopping.


Eurovision Song Contest

During my stay in Tokyo the Eurovision Song Contest was going on back home in Europe, and I could not miss it!!! I tried to search if there were any place to see it live, but there was unfortunately not any place to see it live... as it would start at 5 in the morning. Ah well. At least I had wi-fi connection at my hostels, so I was able to see it on my computer thankfully:) Funnily enough for one of the semifinals I was joined for a short while to watch the show on my laptop by this one old guy who was staying at the hostel, and always got up at 5 am (as he's an old man). He found it pretty funny to watch actually. For the final (which then would be aired very early on Sunday morning) I got Yuki to join me, as he showed interest for the concept, and we had stayed together for the whole evening before and had a few beers with my friends from Norway, before having to say goodbye to them, as they were leaving the next day. Also Yuki was living pretty far from the city center area, in a suburb, so he would have had to take a taxi back home, which would have become filthy expensive for him. So we were both sitting in the common room at my hostel watching the show on my laptop, and later joined again for a very short while by the old guy – haha. It was a very nice time, watching it together with Yuki, even though both of us were pretty tired. As I predicted in May last year – Denmark won. So congrats to Denmark for the effort this year;)


Disneyland

Well... I was supposed to go to Disneyland when I got to Tokyo, but unfortunately I did not get to go. I was occupied doing lots of other stuff most of the time and I had as well hoped to be able to be joined by someone, which I was not. I especially wanted to explore Disneyland Sea, which is exclusive for Tokyo and does not exist anywhere else in the world. I will though for sure return to Tokyo one day so I need something to look forward till then as well;


KAMAKURA

On the second day of our stay in Tokyo we decided to leave Tokyo and visit Kamakura, a city located about 50 kilometers south-south-west of Tokyo. Although Kamakura proper is today rather small, it is often described in history books as a former de facto capital of Japan as the seat of the Shogunate and of the Regency during the Kamakura Period. As of 2012, the modern city has an estimated population of 174,412 inhabitants. Kamakura also has a beach which, in combination with its temples and proximity to Tokyo, makes it a popular tourist destination for both locals and foreigners.


Kōtoku-in

We did not have much time to spend in Kamakura, and we also happened to leave and arrive at different times. So it was me and Håvard hanging together, while Jarle, Frode and Morten hang together. The first stop I and Håvard did was at the Kōtoku-in, a Buddhist temple which is renowned for its «Great Buddha», a monumental outdoor bronze statue of Amida Buddha which is one of the most famous icons of Japan. The 13,35m tall bronze statue probably dates from 1252, but it is unclear, however, whether the statue constructed in 1252 is the same statue as the present statue. The statue once was gilded with golden leafs, and it is said that you can still see traces of golden leafs some places on the statue, but they really don't know for sure it seems like. But it was a very nice area to explore for sure.


Hase-dera

The only other place we got to check out while in Kamakura was the Hase-dera complex, which is one of the great Buddhist temples in the city, founded in year 736. The temple is famous for housing a massive wooden statue of Kannon, 9,8 meters tall, one of the largest in Japan. The area also offers a great view of the Kamakura Bay, as well as the grounds of the temple are home to hundreds of small Jizō statues, placed by parents mourning offspring lost to miscarriage, stillbirth, or abortion. These statues remain in place for about a year, before being removed to make way for more statues; it is estimated that some 50,000 Jizō statues have been placed at Hase-dera since WWII.


ENOSHIMA

We moved on from the city of Kamakura to the Island of Enoshima, which is a part of the city of Fujisawa. This island is about 4 km in circumference, and is located at the mouth of the Katase River, and flows into Sagami Bay. It is linked to the Katase section of Fujisawa on the mainland by a 600 meter-long bridge. The island houses local resorts, beaches, and the Enoshima shrine, which was founded in year 853. The island in its entirety is dedicated to the goddess, Benzaiten, the goddess of music and entertainment, who is said to have made it rise from the bottom of the sea in sixth century.


«I, A Criminal?»

The main reason for us going to Enoshima was that some wanted to experience the Onsen on the island, which is a form of hot spring. I was not aware of this though. So I was not too happy when I realized we were going to Enoshima for the onsen and not for other things, as most onsens in Japan do not accept tattoos, as people with tattoos are perceived as Yakuzas, members of organized crime. Tattoos are in Japan seen as a badge of criminality. Even the smallest, most innocent tattoo can restrict a person to enter a Japanese onsen. So IF I had know we were going to an Onsen I would have checked before departure if I would be allowed to enter, but I did not get this chance – and as expected, I was not allowed to enter the facility. There are a certain few places in Tokyo that do allow people with tattoos to enter, but you really have to look them up on-line first to know where they are.  

So I ended up, together with Håvard, as he didn't feel like going to the hot spring, walking around the island, exploring the Shrine and taking photos – which also was ok. As we did not know when the rest would be ready for leaving back for Tokyo I and Håvard went back to the city by ourselves as it was getting late and I just found my back to Asakusa and had a nice evening my myself exploring this area as well.


YOKOHAMA

The very last day of my stay in Japan, Yuki decided to take me to Yokahama, as Yokohama was pretty close to Yuki's place – AND it was about time to get to see something else than only Tokyo as well. Yokohama is the second largest city in Japan by population after Tokyo, with a population of 3,7 million, and most populous municipality of Japan. It lies on Tokyo Bay, south of Tokyo. It is a major commercial hub of the Greater Tokyo Area and is a major port city of Japan today.

After arriving to Yokohama we took a ferry ride from close to the main station to the Kannai-area, which is the historic port area of the city. From here we walked to the Yokohama Harbour View Park, passing through the «French» mountain and also the famous doll museum in Yokohama (did not go inside it though), before going back down and walking along the seaside by the Yamashita Park. Next to the Yamashita park we could see the Yokohama Marine Tower, which is the tallest inland lighthouse in the world. We ended up at the Osanbashi Yokohama International Passenger Terminal, which is an amazing terminal with covered by a wooden roof with patches of green areas and the opportunity for people to walk around on top. It really was a very nice construction, as it also felt VERY Norwegian in every way.  

Yokohama is also the home of the many other interesting sites. Among them the Landmark Tower, the tallest building in Japan until surpassed by the Tokyo Skytree, as well as Yokohama Chinatown, which is the largest in Japan and one of the largest Chinatowns in the world, and also the Cosmo Clock 21, which was the tallest Ferris wheel in the world when completed in 1989 and which also doubles as «the world's biggest clock.»  

So it was a very very nice day to hang out with Yuki, who is an amazing and kind person, which I hope that I will get the pleasure to meet again at one point in the future. It was very sad to have to say goodbye, but this was my last day in Japan...


Meeting Up With Kenneth

Yuki followed me to the train station to say goodbye, and made sure that I got on the right train to the airport. At the airport I met up with Kenneth again, who had spent a couple of days by himself in the Narita-area, where the airport is located. It was nice to see Kenneth again, and of course after more than a month apart we had lots to talk about as well with each other, which was a nice change from last time we saw each other – haha;)


Some last words

I LOVE Tokyo as a city! It is big, but has so much to offer – and it is easy to get around as well. Tokyo offers everything you could desire. So I would definitely like to return to the city one day:) The people are really nice as well, even though they are a bit difficult to get in touch with at first, but they are really friendly when you first get to know them, at least that's the feeling I got of the Japanese. I had an overall fantastic experience while in Japan for 2 weeks! Though I realized that there are so many more places I really would have liked to visit in Japan, that I HAVE to come back one day. Japan is now so far 1 of 3 countries I really have to return to, the others being New Zealand and Myanmar of course.

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