19. aug. 2013

Tanzania: The Amazing Serengeti Experience

[ by Stian ]

The country of Tanzania is located in East Africa bordering Kenya and Uganda in the north; Rwanda, Burundi and the Democratic Republic of the Congo to the west; and Zambia, Malawi, and Mozambique to the south. The country's eastern border is formed by the Indian Ocean. Tanzania is famous for being the country of Kilimanjaro, Africa's highest mountain, the island of Zanzibar and the amazing national park of Serengeti. Since 1996, the official capital of Tanzania has been Dodoma, while Dar Es Salaam served as the capital between the independence in 1964 and 1996. Dar Es Salaam still remains Tanzania's principal commercial city and is the main location of most government institutions though and it is also the principal port of the country. The name "Tanzania" derives from the names of the two states, Tanganyika and Zanzibar, that united in 1964 to form the United Republic of Tanganyika and Zanzibar. Later the same year the country was renamed the United Republic of Tanzania. The two states Tanganyika and Zanzibar regained independence from Great Britain in 1961 and 1963 respectively.


Finally On The Road

We departed Nairobi early in the morning and headed straight for Tanzania. The first day we traveled approximately 286 km, so it was not a very long ride, but still time consuming as we had to cross the border from Kenya to Tanzania. I and Kenneth was sitting almost right in the front of the truck, and the first person we really got in touch with was the lovely Natasha from Melbourne, Australia. Natasha was that type of girl which I really like to talk to and as she was very easy to chat with as well, and seemed like a girl who could handle a joke well, I of course made many a «funny» comments and jokes along the way. It's my way of bonding to say. We also got in touch with most of the others as well but as the Danish girls Ann Sofie and Kathrine, and Gavin from Scotland and Lucas, the Polish, from London, were sitting right across from us – they automatically became the first ones we chatted with. Ah, as well as Julian, our tour leader of course who had a reserved seat in the very front of the truck... and also Johan and Angelika as they are Swedish of course;) 

So it seemed like a very nice group of people we had ended up with. Most of us were actually around the same age as well - meaning around 30 years old +/- a couple of years. Only the Danish, the Scottish and the Dutch were in their early 20s, while granddaughter Sadie was only 15, while in the other end we had grandpa Raymond who was of course of grandpa-age;) I think it was Muneira who stated later during the trip that she was really happy about this mix as she was afraid that she would be the only «old» one, mixed with ONLY early 20-something or even younger. We had to agree that we liked the «mature» mix, as even the youngest seemed very mature for their age.


First Stop in Tanzania: Arusha

Arusha, also known as Tanzania's “safari capital”, is undoubtedly the most important center in northern Tanzania. With many protected national parks, reserves, and mountains nearby (on a clear day, you can see Mt. Kilimanjaro in the distance). Arusha is a major town with a population of 1,3 million, located far north in Tanzania, though we did not stay in the city itself, as our campsite was located a short distance just outside of the main city. The campsite, the Arusha Snake Park, turned out to be a very nice campsite as well, as there was a lot to do in the area. On the site there was a snake center located, where we got a guided tour and explained the different snakes of Africa. There were other animals and birds there as well, as the center kind of functioned as a welfare center for wild animals as well. There was also a Maasai Cultural Museum on the site, a really nice souvenir market across the street, a Tanzanite shop, and also a special clinic specialized in treating wounds after snake bites. We had the option of visiting the Snake Wound Clinic, but I opted not to do it (even though it would have been very interesting), as I probably would have been the only one interested, and of the reason that they expect a donation after the tour and I really do not have money for donations for every where were we would be going on this trip. Of course there was a bar at the site as well, so everybody seemed very happy about this of course.  

So after arriving to the camp we were quickly instructed by our guides how to both put up and pack our tents. We had also been allocated in different chores groups – as this tour is a collaboration to make everything work effectively throughout the entire time. So someone had kitchen duty, while others had packing duty or truck duty, or coolbox duty. Every fifth day we had a day off from chores (nice days) – haha. We had no reason to complain though as it was Julian and TJ who did all the cooking for us during the entire trip almost, as well as shopping of the groceries, all which is time consuming. It turned out that both Julian and TJ made really really nice food as well – so it was not a problem to help out with the chopping and to to the dishes afterwards. I had actually hoped that I would be able to loose some weight while in Africa – but that turned out to be not the case at all as our guides made so much food that we could help ourselves both twice or three times... so I actually gained weight... damn it. Haha.


Serengeti National Park

On the second day we headed for the famous Serengeti National Park, which would turn out to be a, maybe even THE, definite highlight of my year. We would be doing a 2 night / 3 day excursion in Serengeti, which would include 3 days of game drive, 2 of in Serengeti and one day in the Ngorongoro Crater. On our way to Serengeti we got to experience one of the most beautiful rides I have ever seen, through the Ngorongoro Conservation Area. When we reached the Serengeti National park we had to split up in groups and change into 4WD safari vehicles, as our truck would be a very stupid option to drive around with on the plains. In my "cozy" safari jeep, I ended up with Kenneth, Ann Sofie, Kathrine, Silje, Ingrid and Sadie, which turned out to be a very nice group for the days we spent in Serengeti. When we entered the park we could even pop up the roof of the 4WD and stand while driving. THIS moment was just amazing and suddenly this day turned out to be the absolute best day of the year for me. I was in a super ecstatic mood – especially as it was an amazing beautiful hot day as well.  

The Serengeti National Park was established in 1951 and is located within the Serengeti ecosystem, which is one of the Seven Natural Wonders of Africa, and one of the ten natural travel wonders of the world. The national park is of course an UNESCO World Heritage Site. Serengeti is famous for its large population of lions and for hosting the largest terrestrial mammal migration in the world. In the Serengeti National Park there's an annual migration of more than 1.5 million white bearded (or brindled) wildebeest and 250,000 zebra. The name «Serengeti» comes from the Maasai language and translates as «endless plains».


Spotting the wildlife:)

Almost right after we entered the park we could see an elephant crossing the road – which was an amazing sight in itself. Later during the day we would be seeing lots of zebras, giraffes, monkeys, storks, hyenas, gazelles, African buffaloes, antelopes, lions, wildebeests, hippos and even a couple of leopards. The game drives, as they call the actual safari, always has as an aim to get to spot the so called Big5 of Africa, which are the elephants, the lions, the African buffaloes, the leopards and the black rhinos. We were lucky and got to see 4 of the 5 on the first day already – and the black rhino we would not have been able to see anyways as there are none in the specific area of the park that we visited. The reason why these specific five animals are referred to as the big five is because they are very strong, have very few natural enemies and are unfortunately the trophy animals of any poacher and therefore the most sought after species.

The most dangerous of the big five are the African buffalo as it is said that sometimes it takes five lions to bring down one buffalo If you by any chance are not able to kill a buffalo on the first try, but only hurts it, it produces so much testosterone, which makes it furious, but also very clever, as it tend to be able to hide from the poacher, plan an ambush and attack from behind. It is said that a fierce meeting with an African buffalo is the only certain death of the big 5. Well to be honest, I don't think I would have liked to met any of the big five in the wild...on my own, anyways.

Later we also got to spot a cheetah protecting its prey, warthogs (or Pumbaas as well called them), ostriches and crocodiles from a far distance. We also got to witness the famous migration of thousands of zebras and wildebeests, which was just amazing. I do have to say that I was about to become extremely tired of lions during the second day of game drive, as we had seen soooooo many of them – and lions are pretty much BORING animals, as they mostly are just lazy and do relaxing, and our driver seemed obsessed with spotting lions. Like if we would not be interested in any other animals at all. The one time we actually did see something interesting related to the lions, was when we saw a group of lions preparing to hunt for a warthog, getting ready into positions, but we were interrupted by the news that there had been a leopard spotted close by, so we had to go see it before it would run away. I have to say though that seeing the leopard was amazing. It was a mother and two cubs and they really really are a beautiful species.  


Maasai Village

The first day in Serengeti we also got to visit a traditional Maasai Village, which was very nice. Of course we had to pay entrance to get into the village. We then got introduced to the culture with a song and a dance, and then we had the opportunity to interact with the native and take part in the famous Maasai-jumping. We then got to see the village school where we got very nice information in English by the local guide. We were asked to give a donation, and I chose to give as I found it very charming. Afterwards we were taken into a specific Maasai house so that we could see how their houses looks like from the inside – and I have to say it's not much at all what they own or live by. We have lots to be grateful for back home for sure. When we got out of the house again we were approached to purchase souvenirs, like bracelets and necklaces, from the stand just outside the house we had just been inside. I found the prices to be too expensive and they were not willing to give me a good price at all, so I refused to buy anything – as the only one of the whole group it turned out, haha. I really liked the village, but I was very disappointed to realize that it was such a commercial effort. We had to pay to get into the village, I donated money to the school and the Maasai almost seemed angry with me for not purchasing the souvenirs... so I ended up walking away, as the some of the charm of this visit had suddenly disappeared as I don't like being cornered and forced into buying stuff. As I already had paid a lot for the actual tour I was trying to save money this month,  so spending half a days maximum budget in this place was absolutely no option for me. We later realized that there are many traditional Maasai villages in the area, but I guess each village has each their own tour company to relate to, as other companies went to the other villages instead.


Serengeti Visitor Center

On the second day we had the option of doing a hot air balloon safari, but as it was fairly expensive only Natasha of the whole group took part in this tour. She told us it was great though. The rest of us did a game drive in the morning before dropping by the Serengeti Visitor Center, a center were we could get a great deal of information concerning the area, both geologically and coming to the animals and to the protecting of the area. Here we would be meeting up with Natasha again as well, before heading out of the Serengeti National Park. Around this area we could spot a whole bunch of rock hyraxes, small guinea pig-like animals, whose funnily enough one of the closest relatives are the modern day elephants.


Campsite next to the Ngorongoro Crater

It was sad leaving the Serengeti National Park, but we had to move on. Our next campsite would be close to the Ngorongoro Crater, and we would be doing a game drive in the crater the following day. The new campsite turned out to be a really nice one, and even a bit exiting as well as we during the late evening realized that we had two African buffaloes walking just outside our tents, as well as an elephant hanging around the water source of the camp site and we also spotted a bushpig running between the tents.  

From the campsite we had a beautiful view of the crater, but the temperature was significantly lower here and we had to prepare ourselves for an extremely cold night. The people who run the campsite had gotten us extra blankets as it was for sure it would be freezing temperature during the night. The evening itself was very nice, especially since it turned out to be Sadie's sweet 16th so the locals had made her a birthday cake which was a very nice gesture indeed.


The Ngorongoro Crater

The Ngorongoro Crater is the world's largest inactive, intact, and unfilled volcanic caldera, and is located within the Ngorongoro Conservation Area (NCA), a conservation area and a World Heritage Site as well. The crater is even recognized by one private organization as one of the seven natural wonders of Africa. The crater, which formed when a large volcano exploded and collapsed on itself two to three million years ago, is 610 metres deep and its floor covers 260 square kilometers. Estimates of the height of the original volcano range from 4,500 to 5,800 meters. The elevation of the crater floor is 1,800 m above sea level. The Ngorongoro was originally a part of the Serengeti, but it was made separate conservation area in 1956 so that the Maasai could graze their cattle there.

We did another game drive in the Ngorongoro Crater, this time with the aim to spot the black rhino, which is an extremely endangered species. We did eventually get to see the black rhino, but from a very far distance, so we were lucky. Other than that we also spotted flamingos from far distance as well, and we also got close up to an elephant. Other than that the Ngorongoro crater was pretty much boring compared to the Serengeti. It was nice, but we were as well becoming annoyed with our driver who was focusing so much on spotting lions and ignoring us totally when we wanted him to stop so that we could take photos of the funny looking, pretty birds.


Moshi

Our next campsite was located in a small municipality called Moshi, so we eventually left the Ngorongoro Conservation Area and headed back towards Arusha. The quality of the roads on this particular route was probably the most horrible I have ever experienced. It was literally a painful ride in many ways – and it was impossible to air out our vehicle as well, as the road was to dusty. Back in Arusha we met up with TJ and the truck, did some shopping and then moved on towards our next campsite some distance past the small city of Moshi. Moshi is located in the Kilimanjaro region and serves as the spot from where most people depart for tours to the Kilimanjaro mountain. As much as I would have loved to climb Kilimanjaro, we did not have time to include Kilimanjaro in our tour for this time.  


Traditional South African Dinner

When we arrived campsite we got in touch with another overland truck, which was traveling all the way from Cape Town and ending up in Cairo – meaning their tour was twice as long as hours, WOW! So we had a chat with some of the members of this other company, before being served a very very traditional South-African dinner by Julian (or at least he claimed it was a traditional meal). The meal consisted of typical African beef-sausages, which actually are really really tasty, and «mashed» cornflour-thingy (actually cornflour mixed with water, I think it was, and then it turned out like something that looked like mashed potatoes). The sides were salad and then, wait for it: A mixture of red beans in tomato sauce, mayonnaise and BANANAS. This particular last side dish is very typical for South Africa obviously, and the combination sounds horrible, but I actually found it very tasteful and it worked well with the sausages. So I was pleasantly surprised.  

After dinner most of us hang out in the bar area of the campsite and had a few beers before we had to go to sleep. Moshi was also the first campsite where we had the option of «upgrading», meaning that we could choose to pay money for a room at the site instead of having to camp. Partha, the Singaporean guy, and later also Lucas, the Polish Brit, would become the two big upgrade guys of our group – haha.


First days impressions:

The first days of our African adventure had turned out to be absolutely amazing in every way. The impressions were plenty and of the impressive kind. The people seemed to get along very well. The food made by Julian had also been really nice so far, and the actual drive we had done with the truck had been, though time consuming, very funny as well. As a whole group we had been really good at entertaining ourselves and getting to know each other, so by the end of Serengeti trip I think most of us had no problem feeling included in the group. The only negative thing I can say about the first days must be that the quality of the roads from Arusha to Serengeti was incredible bad and painful as it was bumpy and dusty, but they are fixing this so in a couple of years the roads will be perfect. We were also a bit too annoyed with our game driver as he didn't listen to us when we told him what we wanted to see and so on while in the Serengeti. Also, the first nights of camping had been really really cold, but that was my own fault as I did not have a proper sleeping bag for these conditions unfortunately. Winter in Africa is FREEZING COLD!!!! So those are though only minor objections considering the amount of amazing things we got to see and experience. Serengeti is DEFINITELY one of my top destinations which I would like to recommend to the whole world. It is just AMAZING!!!



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