8. aug. 2013

Hanoi + Ha Long Bay

[ by Stian ]

Part 2 of our Vietnam-experience, and we were now heading for the northern part of the country, to the second largest city and capital city of Vietnam, Hanoi. We had been warned before our trip that people in this region are not as friendly as further south in the country, but it couldn't be that bad, could it? I would also be exploring the world famous Ha Long Bay, which from 2012 was declared as one of the 7 new wonders of nature – so it was all set for an amazing experience once again.

Train-ride to Hanoi
The train we came with:)

We got the amazing staff at the hotel in Hué to book our train ticket for us, and it turned out that they then of course booked the most expensive ticket – first class ride – from Hué to Hanoi. So we were given a sleeping compartment with «soft» beds. Actually – the only difference between the most expensive ticket and the lesser expensive ticket was the difference of soft and hard mattress. But really, IF OUR mattress was soft I can't imagine how the hard one was, cause this was the hardest mattress I had ever slept on. One could feel the wood under the mattress literally... ah well, but surprisingly I did manage to sleep even though. We also shared compartment with a very nice German couple, Markus and Christine, who we had very nice conversations with, so we could not complain about the company at all. The ride was a good one indeed.


May De Ville Legend Hostel

When finally in Hanoi we found our way to our hotel/hostel, May De Ville Legend Hostel, which is a combination of a hotel and a hostel as they did have expensive room as well as dorms. The first impression was not very nice though as the receptionist seemed totally uninterested. I was to check in only for one night to begin with as I was to do a 2-day-1-night Ha Long Bay tour the next day, while Kenneth checked in for all 3 nights, as he opted not to go to Ha Long Bay with me. The girl behind the counter seemed so unwilling to help that I wanted to grab her hair smash her head in the counter – which was a WOW and TOTALLY different experience compared to the excellent service we had received in Hué. The rest of the staff didn't seem very interested in their job either.... Anyways – we did get checked in in the end. We shared a 6 bed-dorm and among the other guests we had Jakob from Denmark, Simone from UK, Arne from Germany and Maggie from the US. As I was only staying for this one night to start with I only got to briefly get to know Simone and Jakob in the evening, while I would get the chance to get to know Maggie a bit better, as I also would get to hang out with her when I got back from the Ha Long Bay tour later on. I also got to know Arne just a bit as we shared dinner in the evening the first night.


Sightseeing in Hanoi

As our hostel was located in the old part of the city center we did some sightseeing in this area shortly after check-in. The atmosphere is totally different compared to central Vietnam as the streets are very crowded and the shops are many. When we entered the shops no one seemed interested in helping us at all. At a couple of places I did find some nice shirts and we tried to ask for my size but the tiny people just shook their head shockingly trying to gesture to us that sizes for a big guy like me did not exist... ah well. So we just stopped entering any shop at all as this was a lost cause in this area of Hanoi obviously. Otherwise there were not much to see at all in this area...  



   
Phò Bó – Speciality of Hanoi  
              
Very tastless Phò bó.
We had lunch at an ok establishment called Quán Bia Minh, close to our hostel and I ordered myself a Phò bó, which is a beef rice noodle soup, the most traditional of all meals in the Hanoi-region. It was not to bad, though a bit tasteless. Unfortunately Kenneth told me that the Phò bó he had in Da Nang was way better than this one, so I was a bit disappointed as I had been told that I should wait until I arrived to Hanoi to try this specific dish as Hanoi was supposed to have the best one (as it's originally from here). Ah well. I also had a chicken mayonnaise sandwich on the side, which actually tasted better than the Phò bó. Ah well, but I CAN recommend Phò bó still, as it still is a very nice meal:) The service at the place was not too bad though at least, even though it seemed like they tried to avoid us, but I guess that had more to do with language challenges than plain rudeness.


Dinner with Arne in the evening

We went back to the hotel for resting and got in touch with Arne, another of our roomies and we decided later to go for dinner together at the Gecko Restaurant. Gecko Restaurant is a chain of restaurants at least in Hanoi, but probably all over Vietnam. Arne seemed like a really nice guy and we got along well. This time I had stir fried beef with pineapple, onion and rice for my main and then a crepe with vanilla ice cream and chocolate sauce for dessert, and a banana-,carrot-, and ginger-milkshake on the side:) VERY nice. As we were the only guests in this very small restaurant the service was pretty OK as well. Arne left us a bit earlier and me and Kenneth had the option of hanging out in the area afterwards, but most places were too crowded really, and I noticed that I was about to get a headache caused by the massive level of pollution in the air... I have honestly never experienced this anywhere in the world before. The pollution is really bad, so we opted just to go back to the hotel and rest for the rest of the evening.

Ha Long Bay

The very next morning I checked out of the hostel and was then picked up by my tour company for my anticipated Ha Long Bay Tour. Funnily enough the tour company was ironically called Joy Travel Company. After spending like hours to pick up everyone who was to participate on the tour, we finally found our way towards Ha Long City, where we eventually could board our very nice old boat and head for Ha Long Bay. Of course this was not without a problem to start off with, as we (for some strange reason) had to give up our passports to the guide, with the reason that he needed them in case we would be stopped by the coastal authorities, so that he could prove that we were legal tourists of Vietnam. Not everyone agreed at first to give up their passports with the very logical reason that IF we were to be stopped by the authorities then we could show them the passport ourselves. The lesser smart guide insisted on having our passports in his care so we just had to give up this «fight». It's funny how many places in the world that requires you to always carry your passport on you or to give it up to strangers to at be able to participate in things, even though it is strictly recommended by authorities all over the world NEVER to do so... ah well.

Ha Long Bay, literally meaning «descending dragon bay», is both a UNESCO World Heritage site and one of the new 7 wonders of nature, and is famous for it's thousands of limestone karsts and isles in various sizes and shapes. The islands are rising spectacularly from the ocean and are topped with thick jungle vegetation, and many of the islets are hollow, with enormous caves as well. The area is pretty big, though I would only be visiting the core center as I only had a 2 day-1 night tour. The more extensive tours also included the island of Cat Ba and Tuan Chau, which are also very popular among the tourists.

My tour group consisted of 18 people all together. About 15 of were like around 18-20 years old. I was the only one who was 29, then we had David from Canada who was 60-something and who I shared compartment with, and also there was the 70 year old female Thai professor Noppamars (gotta love that name). We also had Olivia (18) from Sweden, Adam, Jack, Craig, Lucy, Parisa, Imy, Abi, Roisin and Philippa who were all from the UK, and then Toly, Eldar, Shaked, Meytal and Tal who were all from Israel. Despite the massive age difference between the 15 young and us 3 old, the chemistry was pretty good.

To begin with we all found our way to our compartments, which turned out to be really nice, with real showers and everything – so I was very pleased. Then we all wanted to get to know each other and therefore found our way into the restaurant/bar–area of the boat. The guy running the boat though had other plans though as he decided that he wanted to listen to very loud techno music at the same time, so it was not possible to communicate at all with each other. So we politely asked if he could turn down the volume of the music as it felt very disturbing for everyone. The guy, who would turn out to be just an ass all over, reluctantly turned the volume down just a bit. After a short while it was time to get our lunch served. The same guy served us the lunch, but instead of putting the plates with food carefully down on the table he almost literally threw the plates on the table. So we had spent less than two hours on the boat and I already had a massive negative impression of this local guy. Ah well at least the group seemed to come along very well.

This first day we also made a visit to the floating village of Ha Long Bay, and also got to do some kayaking. We were also supposed to go swimming afterwards, but because we spent so much time picking up people in the morning and then getting to Ha Long Bay the night fell upon us suddenly and the guide then refused us to go swimming, which was a bummer. So the rest of the evening all the youngsters decided to get way drunk. We had been told that it was not allowed to bring your own booze, as we had to purchase everything from the bar. The youngsters didn't really care about this. They all purchased a can of beer each only, and then just left the restaurant and filled the can up with their own booze before returning to the restaurant. I am not sure if the bartender really noticed or not, unless he was totally stupid – because it was interesting to see how massively drunk some became, but with NO increase of numbers of cans on the table. I actually do suspect that I was probably the one who spent the most money in the bar with my purchase of three cans of soda, as I opted not to drink this evening. Of course it was the Swedish girl and the Brits who drank the most and got way drunk, while the Israeli was way calmer and spent more time on the top deck just chatting them in between. The 70 year old Thai woman was observing the youngster and their drinking games together with myself from the end of the table. I asked her if she found this type of drinking uncomfortable, but she just laughed and told me that she was enjoying this observation and that she was pretty wild herself in her younger days. I just had to laugh, cause I could not really picture this in my head at all. Haha;)


Ha Long Bay – Day 2

I had a very nice sleep in my lovely compartment, and the shower was indeed one of the better ones as well. The only thing on our agenda for this day was to visit the Hang Súng Sô't Cave, which is a massive cave, though it really is just a cave. I got to take some photos though – but unfortunately the weather for the two days we spent in this area was not of the very best, as it was cloudy all the time. I can just imagine how beautiful this area would have been if there had been sun and blue sky, so maybe I have to return one day. On the way back to Ha Long City the two elder of my group noticed that there was a lot on the itinerary that we did not get to see or to do, so they questioned the guide, but he did not seem very interested and just explained that we just did not have enough time to do it all as we were so late the previous morning. Like that was OUR fault? So in many ways the tour could have been way better, especially the managing of it.

Back in Ha Long City we got served lunch at this local place (which was included in the tour-package), but the food was pretty much awful and almost no one ate. On the way back to Hanoi it turned out that they had miscalculated the number of people, as they put two groups together for only one bus. Considering that we filled up a whole minibus on the way to Ha Long City the previous day as well, this was a disaster. People were NOT happy. Ah well. Eventually after a massive number of phone calls and complaining everyone did get back to Hanoi, but there were so much to criticize about this trip. Thankfully most of us got it VERY cheap, but some paid twice as much as others (not at all worth the price then) as they had gotten it organized through their hotel. So my advice for anyone heading for Ha Long Bay: Find a tour company office in the city of Hanoi and ask for the best price there, and then compare with another company – the difference might be pretty big some places.  

Snake Restaurant Experience:)
White Cobra till US $70

Finally back in Hanoi I checked in to May De Ville Hostel again, though this time I got a different room, so I had to deal with new room-mates. I did meet Kenneth already in the lobby and he asked me if I wanted to join him and Maggie for one of the most genuine Vietnamese experiences ever, which would be to eat snake. Of course I could not refuse this so I ran up to my room and freshened up quickly and met up with them in the lobby. As there are more than one snake-restaurant we asked the staff at the receptionto recommend one for us. The restaurant we got recommended was Ngyen Van Duc Snake Restaurant.  

In the taxi on the way over to the restaurant we were stopped by this very nicely formally dressed young man on his motorbike. He asked us if we were heading for snake restaurant and we said yes. He then right away tried to convince us to come to «his» restaurant instead. Maggie told him that we had already been recommended one particular restaurant, so we wanted to stick with the recommendation. The guy then asked us the name of the restaurant and when he saw the name of the restaurant on the piece of paper we had, he was surprisingly amazed, bursting out «is this the restaurant you got recommended? Who recommended this? This is our restaurant!». He was very happy, and just told the taxi driver to follow him. At first we were a bit skeptical as it seemed like the taxi driver took us to a dark and deserted back alley somewhere. At first we did not believe that the nicely dressed guy spoke the truth (remember we have had bad experience with nicely dressed people before as they usually are scammers). We did though follow him (he was cute) and he did end up leading us to the restaurant we had been recommended (thankfully). The location of the restaurant was definitely not the easiest to find, but when we first got there we were amazed how beautiful this restaurant was. Kenneth even recognized this restaurant as the one snake restaurant they used for the Norwegian version of the Amazing Race as well, so it really was a nice place. It also turned out that the nicely dressed guy, who's name was Ba Thuy, was the nephew of the owner of the restaurant. He told us that he was in charge of the foreign customers but that they rarely have foreign customers at all as they tend to go to the other restaurant, which is more of a show-restaurant. This restaurant is just a regular one which focus mainly on the whole dining experience and is not so known among the tourists as his uncle refuses to promote it in any way. So sometimes he just had to try to "steal" customers by stopping the taxis then. 

As tradition is we had to choose our snake for the meal. The first snake we were shown was a white cobra, and we went for this one. The snake was an aggressive one, trying to attack us. At one point I was very worried because Maggie was really getting close to the snake trying to get the best photos of it. They put the head of the snake on the floor and cut it's teeth out, and then they hold the snake up in front of us again – it was even more aggressive at this point, understandable though. We had to witness the process of it being slain and they removed the beating heart, which one of us were to drink later on as a part of the experience. One of the main differences between this restaurant and the show-restaurant is that at the show-restaurant one of the guests have to rip the heart out of the snakes body with his teeth, while the snake is still alive, we were told. We were suddenly very glad we did not get the other restaurant recommended. We were then shown to our table where we got the menu presented. Ba really turned out to have passion for his job as he did a really good job explaining every part of the meal for us.  

The white cobra was prepared into 10 different courses for us to enjoy throughout the evening: Snake soup, sautéd snake w/onion and spice, fried snake meat, snake spring rolls (Very good), fried snake bones+dry pancake, snake pie, snake intestines, snake soup w/ginseng, snake gruel, snake blood + bail mixed with rice wine and then also snake wine. So it was a very very interesting meal in every way. Some of it was very good, some was OK, some was not as good, but it all depends what one like I guess. Like intestines has never been a favorite of mine no matter what kind of animal it's from. Though everything from the snake is supposed to be very good for male vigorous. The overall experience was really really good though and we had a great time. As it was Maggie's suggestion and passion to do this experience she also got the honor of drinking the heart. Ba Thuy turned out to be such a nice guy that we exchanged facebook, so he is now a friend of mine of facebook. I hope for his sake that he does get his dream of an owning his own snake restaurant in the future fulfilled.


A walk in the park

Safely back in the old town of Hanoi we went for a walk. We dropped by the very nice Café Nola but it was about to close so we decided to return the next day. We then did a walk in the park together with Maggie and got some photos taken and just relaxed the rest of the evening.


   Last day in Hanoi: Breakfast with Mickael and Aydeen
Aydeen, Mickael and myself

The next morning I had breakfast at the hotel with Maggie, though she had to leave almost right away. As Kenneth is not much of a breakfaster I had to eat by myself, but I was not the only one by myself this morning. I got in touch with Swiss guy Mickael, and later on Pakistani girl, Aydeen, got in touch with us as well, so the three of us had a very nice chat together. Mickael turned out to be a very interesting guy who was traveling the whole world at the moment as well, and was at the same time freelance writing for a Swiss magazine about his experience. Unlike myself he had plenty of time and was traveling from Europe to Asia on a motorbike. His recommendation for me was to go to Iran, as Iran was the country he'd had some of the most amazing experiences in. He felt it to be very safe, as well as very friendly. When he arrived to Iran it turned out that he could not cash out any money from the ATM's as his cards did not work on any ATM at all. He was still taken care of by local people who gave him accommodation and food and made his experience an amazing one. Aydeen could also recommend me to go to Pakistan as it is a beautiful country as well, and according to her, also safe. So I was lucky to be accompanied by two very lovely people this morning as well and one day hopefully I will be able to go to both Iran and Pakistan, two countries which I really never have been considering going to before, until now.


Temple of Literature-National University

Later on I met up with Kenneth again and we decided to do some sightseeing again. We had been recommended to see the Temple of Literature-National University, which is a historical and cultural vestige of national level. The temple of literature was constructed in the year 1070 and the national university was constructed in 1076 and has for nearly 1000 years preserved it's ancient architectural style of many dynasties and precious relics. The area is pretty nice indeed, and we also got to observe some graduates during their photo shoot as well. This historic site does though not function as a university anymore, but is solely a cultural heritage of Hanoi -and also a very beautiful back drop for graduates to get their photos taken of course.

Lunch at Café Nola

So the last thing we got to do in Vietnam before heading for Hong Kong was to have lunch at the very very nice Café Nola. We found ourselves a spot on the terrace where we could admire all the colorful umbrellas they had put up for decoration. This time I ordered myself Bún Bò, which is fresh noodles with beef, salad and peanuts – and I have to say it was an amazing meal:) This one was way better than the Phó Bò from two days before. So I was very happy. On the table next to us we had «entertainment» in some other white and blond tourists who was going on about relationship stuff (read: hopeless guys), and it was obviously that one of the guys was gay as they were talking about the Grindr-application as well. So I and Kenneth were eavesdropping to their conversation for some time, which was pretty funny. 


Overall impression of Hanoi

Overall we were not very impressed with Hanoi, not I at least. It is a horribly crowded city and the level of pollution is so massive some places that I could not even stay outside at all as I got a massive headache. The people in Hanoi is in general extremely rude, and this I also noticed in the Ha Long Bay area as well. There are some really nice places, but I feel that you really have to look a long time to find them, or to get someone to recommend these places for you. I am very happy that we got to have the snake-restaurant experience and that we found Café Nola as well. I am glad we had Maggie to hang out with, and it seems like Kenneth had a very good time with Simone, the UK girl, when I was in Ha Long Bay, as well. But I really do feel that I have gotten to experience what is to experience here and I will probably never return, but that is ok:) I cannot be returning to every place I visit in the world either, haha;)

We were though recommended to go to Sapa though, far north in Vietnam, almost on the border to China.... as it is a very very traditional area with loads of rice fields - though we did not have time for this... so that's the only thing to experience in Northern Part of Vietnam that I still have to do...

Photos from HANOI

The ally of our hostel...
Very typical sight in Vietnam...


Streetmarket.
We don't waste anything do we?

Typical artwork found in Northern parts of Vietnam.
Very crowded in the streets at night... plus loads of airpollution.

View from our hostel.
Very narrow room...
Bathroom with "see through" glass walls...
 Snake Restaurant Experience:)



The slaying of the Cobra
Heart of the snake... is to be drunk by someone;)

Snake blood and bail.
Kenneth and Maggie
Snake soup
We are EXCITED:)





Yummy yummy;)

Snake intestines
More snake soup...

Me and Ba Thuy.
Very nice restaurant indeed:)

Happy Maggie:)



A walk in the park at night










The last day in Hanoi






At the Temple of Literature - National University








Cute

Proud graduates


Model of the temple area.







Last meal at Cafe Nola





Bún Bò - AMAZING dish:)



Very cozy feeling inside Cafe Nola, just the way we like it in Norway as well



HA LONG BAY TOUR

Full bus on the way to Ha Long City
Our Boat for 2 days:)


Sundeck, but not much sun unfortunately.

Skyline Ha Long City

The cute British girls


Our lovely cabin :)
Bar/Restaurant + stupid boat guy...
No sun, but still a warm day:)

Just imagine how beautiful this would have been if there
had been sun and blue sky...

Neighboring boat at night.

Good times for the young drinkers in the evening;)
Olivia from Sweden:)


Olivia and Adam
I think she is the one who was called Imy (or maybe she was the Abi?)
- Hungover day anyways.



Craig and Jack


I gotta love this photo of the two british lads:)



Tal and Eldar from Israel:)
Chicken mountain... ?



Love the view - miss the sun though.


Inside the huge cave :)



Floating village:) We went kayaking from here:)


Floating market:)

The Israelis:)
Not a couple, but I do think Adam had a crush on Olivia.
The Brits

Seafood floating market:)







The kitchen in our boat.
There's a beach on this island obviously:)
Noppamars from Thailand and David from Canada:)
Back in Ha Long City:)



Rice fields along the road back to Hanoi.
It's garbage... not very nice to be honest...
I'm glad I don't have their job....



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