[ by Stian ]
Siem Reap is said to be a fantastic
place, though since we did not have a very good start to begin with,
entering Cambodia, it was all bound to go upwards from here on.
Positive thinking is the way to go they say, although I at a snap had
been turned into a paranoid Norwegian who'd become distrustful of everyone
around him, haha. Thankfully I was to be proven that I didn't need to
be skeptical, as long as one is really cautious about ones
surroundings:)
Superslow Morning Thereafter
The next morning I was rested and
ready for new impressions, though the same couldn't be said for the
girls and Kjetil, who went out drinking the evening before. As expected we therefore did not get to do very much the first day,
since the girls were really hung over. We did not complain though,
cause in the morning we got to change room to the original Jasmin
Family Hostel, so the whole first part of the day we got to spend
relaxing and by the pool, which was very very nice, cause it was a
very very hot day!!!! During breakfast I got into chat with two other
girls that were leaving Siem Reap for Bangkok. They could assure me
that not all Cambodians were scammers, so I had nothing to worry
about as long as I took precautions;)
Jasmin Family Hostel
Jasmin Family Hostel is a really
nice hostel. The only let down is the location which is in a shabby
street with almost nothing to see or to do. Even restaurants were
hard to find. I, Kenneth and Kjetil shared room which was OK, while
the girls shared their own room. The staff at the hostel seemed very
friendly, though we had several miscommunications during our stay –
mostly related to paying the bills, haha. At least the food from the
hostel restaurant was very very good. We ended up eating a lot of
chicken burgers while here at least. I even bought two at a
time, since I preferred to stay away from the French fries;) It
wasn't only the burgers that tasted really good. I did try a chicken
and ginger course as well which was very very very delicious. I have
just really fallen in love with ginger while here in Asia – it
really elevates any meal to unexpected tasteful heights;)
Flooded Forest / Floating Village – Tour
Even though it was very nice to
relax we did choose to try to get to do something even this day.
Sissel had found a brochure at the reception and had a chat with the
staff at the hostel as well, and we ended up booking a tour for the
afternoon to the «flooded forest» and the Kampong Phluk village.
The mangrove forest by the lake is a stunning sight when flooded, but
we were soon to discover it was not like we expected it to be.
We were picked up at our hotel by a
couple of Tuk Tuk's and taken to the boats which then would take us
past the village and to the Tonlé Sap – The Great Lake in
Cambodia, which is the largest fresh water lake in South-East Asia.
The Tuk Tuk ride was OK, but dry season of course causes a lot of
road dust and it can make it very uncomfortable to breathe. Luckily I
had purchased a gag for protection, which most people actually do
wear here in South East Asia;) When we finally arrived at the boats
we were instructed to enter one of the boats that were cramped in
between many other boats. Usually this would not have been a problem
if there hadn't been for the lack of water in the river. During the
dry season the river dries out. There were literally barely water in
the river, so our boat struggled to get out, and it seemed like the
propeller got stuck in the shallow mud at times as well. After some
maneuvering we did get going though.
Kampong Phluk
The Kampong Phluk is a «floating»
village and really is an astonishing sight to be honest. The name
of the village translates to «harbor of the Tusks». All the houses
are supported by 10 meter tall poles. At first this looks a bit
strange, but there is a reason why this area is referred to as the
flooded forest village. Most of the year the Tonlé Sap is only about
1 meter, though during monsoon-season the level of the water rises
immensely, up to as much as 8 meters. The lake itself expands five
times it's size surface-wise during the monsoon – from around 2 700
square km to 15 000 square km. In other words, this village really
does turn into a floating village, though we did not get to
experience this at this time. We still got a lot of photos taken and
I think that the lack of water gave us the option of having many many
interesting photos taken which we would not have been able to catch
if the area had been flooded, so we were contempt. We even passed a
boat with a 6 year old boy driving it and holding a cigarette,
obviously smoking, and he gave us a very confident nod to greet us.
This whole picture was so wrong in our eyes, but we have to keep
reminding us that we are in a different world and that things work
very differently here. Though for all we know the boy might have been
16 – it really really is hard to tell the age of people in this
part of the world ;)
Approximately 1.2 million people
living in the greater Tonlé Sap make their living by fishing on the
local waters. Cambodia produces about 400,000 tonnes of
freshwater fish per year, the majority of which comes from Tonlé
Sap. These fisheries account for 16 percent of national GDP, making
the fish industry not only essential to the diet of local populations
but to the Cambodian economy as a whole.
The ride through the very curvy and
shallow river to the Tonlé Sap was a bit challenging for our driver
at times, but we got through. He then took us to a floating
restaurant located in the lake where we got off. We believed that we
were to have lunch here so we sat down and ordered from the menu, but
then realized that we were not supposed to eat at all – only to
drop by, well well. We had already ordered and felt sorry for the
driver who now had to wait for us, so we decided to treat him with
dinner as well to make up for our guilt. We also requested to
get the food in doggy bags so that we could eat on the way back and
therefore not take up even more of the drivers time, especially since
it was about to become dark as well. So we had to drive the same way
back to get to our Tuk Tuk's who were waiting for us. At one point
our boat DID get stuck and the driver had to jump into the riverside
and tried to release the boat by force. He didn't even ask for help,
but he did not have to. So both I and Kjetil helped trying to get the
boat released by pushing an oar towards the riverside, and in the end
we finally did get the boat on the right course again:)
Especially the girls felt guilty for
us having let both the boat driver and the Tuk Tuk drivers wait for us
– so we agreed to tip them a bit extra. We of course ended up
tipping a lot, and probably way over the normal level. So we were
still spending way to much money than what we were supposed to. Well
well... no chance of saving any money yet, not when traveling with
«fresh» travelers who have not adapted to the standard of costs
at least;) haha.
Angkor Wat
The following day we decided to get
up early to catch the sunrise at the magnificent Angkor Wat. Angkor
Wat is is the largest Hindu temple complex and the largest religious
monument in the world. The temple was built by a king Suryavarman
II in the early 12th century in Yasodharapura (present-day Angkor),
the capital of the Khmer Empire, as his state temple and eventual
mausoleum. Breaking from the Shaivism tradition of previous kings,
Angkor Wat was instead dedicated to Vishnu. As the best-preserved
temple at the site, it is the only one to have remained a significant
religious center since its foundation – first Hindu, then Buddhist.
The temple is at the top of the high classical style of Khmer
architecture. It has become a symbol of Cambodia appearing on its
national flag, and it is the country's prime attraction for visitors.
«Justin Bieber»
The sunrise at the temple complex
was very very nice. Of course we were not the only ones who had
thought of this idea since the place was cropped with tourists, and
of course of locals trying to do their business selling us stuff and
getting us to eat breakfast at their stand. We were almost
immediately approached by a kid, who called himself Justin Bieber,
who really was on us to have breakfast at his stand. So we
promised him that we would look for it after sunrise. He regularly
came over to us reminding us the number of his stand, so that we
would not forget. He actually managed to charm us so much
that we decided that we definitely would go to have breakfast at
«his». Though he were not the only celebrity we met at this place.
We were also approached by Rambo, and probably some others that I
don't remember right now. When at the breakfast stand Justin Bieber
was very happy to see us. We had our breakfast which was good, and
Justin even sat down next to us for a chat. It turned out that he was
10 years old, but wow his English skills were good, and he was
extremely quick minded, having a quick response for everything we
asked about. Like when I asked him where he knew English from he
without hesitating replied «school of tourism». He also asked me if
I had a girlfriend, and when I said no, he immediately told me that
he could fix me one, EASILY. He is probably one of the cutest and
most confident 10 year olds I have ever met, so I bet he could
probably have fixed me 10 girlfriends easily for sure.
Marion was approached by a very very
very cute girl, also 10 of age, which she totally fell in love with.
Of course she was selling postcards and both I and Marion got
some. The girl, as well, stuck by us while we were eating. She even
gave Marion a present, a hair scrunchy, stating that she liked
sharing with her friends... aaaaawwww – sweetest gesture ever.
Though she did admit afterwards that she had whole bags of hair
scrunchies so she probably have MANY friends to share with to get her
postcards sold, haha. She eventually got another boy to come to our
table as well, who was 7 years old. He seemed way less confident and
we suspect that he had just gotten into this souvenir business. The
girl tried to explain to him how to approach people but he was so shy
and she just shook her head in despair. She actually seemed to be his
boss in a way, haha. Wow, an image you would never get to see in
Norway. So cute, and so wrong in every way to be honest.
Exploring the temple site was very
interesting. The temples are indeed extremely beautiful. There
has been major preservations of the site for the last 3 decades and
the final restoration work is to be completed in 2013. Especially
Kjetil seemed to have an out of his body spiritual experience while
here. I guess places like this might have this kind of effect on some
people. As of 2012 it was decided that the Angkor Wat site in
Cambodia and the Borobudur site in Yogyakarta, Indonesia, will be
sister sites – and we have gotten to see both during our trip:-)
Wiiii!!!!
Ta Prohm Temple
Our next stop for the day was Ta
Prohm Temple, more known as the Tomb Raider Temple for a lot of
people today since it was used as a location for the first Tomb
Raider movie, haha. Ta Prohm is the modern name of the temple, it
was originally called Rajavihara. The temple is built in the Bayon
style largely in the late 12th and early 13th centuries. The location
of this temple is approximately one kilometer east of Angkor Thom..
It was founded by the Khmer King Jayavarman VII as a Mahayana
Buddhist monastery and university. Unlike most Angkorian temples, Ta
Prohm has been left in much the same condition in which it was found:
the photogenic and atmospheric combination of trees growing out of
the ruins and the jungle surroundings have made it one of Angkor's
most popular temples with visitors.As well as Angkor Wat, UNESCO
inscribed Ta Prohm on the World Heritage List in 1992. Today, it is
one of the most visited complexes in the Angkor region in Cambodia.
Because of the decision of keeping
this temple site pretty much in the same condition as when found,
this temple is by far the most interesting temple I have ever
visited. The way it has partly emerged with the surrounding
jungle is amazing. Almost every corner of it makes a great photo
opportunity so of course we had many many photos taken :)
The Bayon Temple
The last stop of the day was at the
Bayon Temple, and the Elephant Terrace. We did not spend very
long time here since the girls and Kenneth were pretty much fed up
with temples at this point. I guess the heat had a little to do with
it as well, cause it was becoming an extremely hot day at this point.
The Bayon is a well-known and richly
decorated Khmer temple at Angkor, built in the late 12th century
or early 13th century as the official state temple of the Mahayana
Buddhist King Jayavarman VII, the Bayon stands at the center of
Jayavarman's capital, Angkor Thom. Following Jayavarman's death, it
was modified and augmented by later Hindu and Theravada Buddhist
kings in accordance with their own religious preferences.
The Bayon's most distinctive feature
is the multitude of serene and massive stone faces on the many towers
which jut out from the upper terrace and cluster around its central
peak. The temple is known also for two impressive sets of
bas-reliefs, which present an unusual combination of mythological,
historical, and mundane scenes. The temple is described as "the
most striking expression of the baroque style" of Khmer
architecture, as contrasted with the classical style of Angkor Wat.
Because of this The Bayon is the last temple to complete the top 3 of
must visit temples in the Angkor region. Though this temple was not
as interesting as the others since, well as stated already – the
same motif is repeating itself all over the temple. The girls and
Kenneth didn't even care to enter the upper gallery of the temple,
but I and Kjetil did some exploring on our own, though we did not
spend much time here.
The Terrace of the Elephants
We then headed towards the place
were we had agreed to meet our designated Tuk Tuk drivers for the
day. On our way we passed the Terrace of the Elephants. The
Terrace of the Elephants is part of the walled city of Angkor Thom.
The 350 m-long terrace was used by Angkor's king Jayavarman VII as a
platform from which to view his victorious returning army. It was
also used as a giant reviewing stand for public ceremonies and served
as a base for the king's grand audience hall. It was attached to the
palace of Phimeanakas, of which only a few ruins remain. Most of the
original structure was made of organic material and has long since
disappeared. Most of what remains are the foundation platforms of the
complex. The terrace is named for the carvings of elephants on its
eastern face. The middle section of the retaining wall is decorated
with life size Garuda and lions; towards either end are the two parts
of the famous parade of elephants complete with their Khmer mahouts.
Amazone Angkor Restaurant.
Back at the hostel we decided relax for
a while before heading for dinner later in the evening. This night we
chose to go to Amazone Angkor Restaurant which offered a HUGE buffet
as well as traditional Cambodian entertainment during the meal.
Compared to the experience we had at the Karaweik in Yangon, Myanmar,
this was not anything to brag about. The hall was cropped with
tourists and everybody was speaking loudly so we did not get to enjoy
much of the entertainment, which was not that entertaining either
really. The food was great though.
Enni & Vesa from Finland:)
The next day we did not do anything
at all really. We were just slacking at the hotel most of the day. In
the evening I got in touch with a Finnish couple, Enni and Vesa,
who're traveling around for eight months or something. I joined
them for exploring the night market in Siem Reap city center. The
different night markets were really nice, but I preferred the one
named Angkor Night Market though I did not buy anything, haha. I was
very strict on saving money just after having been scammed so I
didn't feel like spending anything. Enni and Vesa were really nice
and it was really interesting hearing about their travels. They
actually managed to have a daily budget of ONLY 30 US dollars, so they
were shocked when I told them that I in average have not been able to
keep my budget under 100 US dollars a day during my trip so far... but then again – Australia
and New Zealand did take it's share of money, and traveling as extensively as we do is very expensive, even in Asia. For them it was Myanmar that became the most expensive part of their tour.
Some few more words about Siem Reap
I only got to see Siem Reap city center
once, at night – and it seemed like a very nice place, with many
cafés, pubs and restaurants. What makes Siem Reap special is of
course the Angkor Wat temple complex and all the other surrounding
temples. We ended up staying an extra day as we didn't feel like
rushing, which was very nice. The people at the hostel seemed very
friendly and helpful, but their English was not very good at times.
We eventually learned that the better their English is - the more
likely it is they are trying to do a scam on you; well besides
«Justin Bieber» that is;) I can definitely recommend people to go
to Siem Reap, as long as they are very cautious about the scammers.
PHOTOS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
On Our Way to "Flooded forest + Village"
On Our Way to "Flooded forest + Village"
At Angkor Wat
At Ta Prohm Temple
At Bayon Temple
At The Terrace of Elephants
Cozy time at the hostel:)
Dinner at Amazone Angkor Restaurant w/entertainment
Vesa & Enni from Finland:)
Of course I have way more photos... but tried to limit myself this time;) haha
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